Bouchon in Napa Valley, California

What can be said of Thomas Keller and his cuisine that has not already been written. He is without doubt one of the world's most influential chefs of the past decade. Keller is an American-born chef that never attended culinary school, opting rather for the traditional method of apprenticing in kitchens in America and France. He is the only American-born chef to simultaneously hold two 3-Michelin starred restaurants (French Laundry, Per Se). Keller is the master of perfection, although he'd be the first to tell you "there's no such thing as perfect food." Dining at the esteemed French Laundry or Per Se, each continually ranked in the upper echelon of restaurants around the world, is not a meal--it is an experience bordering on the religious. You will never forget the flavors, the service, the platings. I was lucky to dine at Per Se several months ago, but before that, there was a cookbook, an evening in Napa Valley, and a place called Bouchon.

I first learned of Keller on my first day of hospitality school, when the chef instructor of my cooking class held up his book and said "This will be your textbook. Read it if you want, as there will be no tests on it. But reading it will help you understand the mind behind the greatest chef of our era." I scoffed at the notion of "a greatest chef" and did not buy the book. I could also not conceive paying a hefty $50 for a cookbook. However, a tiny seed was planted in my head. The concept of using fresh ingredients according to the seasons, the idea of cooking as a legitimate profession...these were novelties to me. It was not until three years later that I actually bought the book to read on my own--long after class had ended--to gain the insight into Keller's mind the instructor had spoken of. By this time I had already read every review, interview, and watched every video imaginable of The French Laundry, Per Se, and Keller. The book was the next step...

Opening up The French Laundry Cookbook, you quickly understand why this man is gifted. He has the ability to take the simplest of ingredients--such as carrots, leeks, and potatoes--and through his cooking transcend them into another world of flavor and texture altogether. Yet, when you look at the dishes, they don't seem complex. This is what makes him special--he can make incredibly difficult cooking techniques seem simple on the plate. The French Laundry cookbook is more than a listing of recipes. He devotes entire pages to talk about his transformation as a cook into a chef, the special purveyors he uses, and the inspirations for the dishes. It is full of countless tips, such as to "run the back of your knife over the skin of a fish filet to remove excess moisture so the skin will crisp nicely when searing."

After reading the book, and even attempting the Pig's Trotters (feet) recipe, I knew I had to pay a visit to one of his places. I had applied to work at The French Laundry back in early 2010, and a month later received notice that they would like to interview me. Within 3 or 4 days, I was already in Napa, staying at a bed and breakfast just 50 feet away from the temple of gastronomy that is The French Laundry. That evening, soaking in the beauty that is Napa, I decided to have dinner at Bouchon.

Bouchon is a Michelin 1-Star rated bistro that Keller created on the same street as The French Laundry. He wanted a place where he and his cooks could enjoy the comfort foods they grew to love in France. For a bistro to have a Michelin Star attests to the quality of cooking and service going on here. I sat down on a stool at the bar, and to my surprise saw Keller and his wife sitting about two tables away. I couldn't believe it!

As an appetizer, I had a Petit Cassoulet de Lapin et Foie Gras. It was a black stock pot casserole of rabbit leg confit, foie gras, heirloom beans, and rabbit jus. I can't recall ever tasting rabbit before this, and every rabbit I've had since I compare to this. It tasted so incredible and rich, words can almost not describe (this will become a theme throughout this post!). It could have easily been an entree since the portion was so big, yet it was priced as an appetizer! It was rustic food cooked with flawless technique.

As an entree, I enjoyed a Gigot d'Agneu (leg of lamb). It came over a bed of English peas, turnips, rhubarb, and a natural lamb jus that was poured tableside. The lamb was most likely cooked sous vide, as it was a perfect medium rare all the way around. It was delicious, but what shocked me even more were the peas and vegetables on the plate. They were harvested right from the French Laundry's farm down the street. Due to this, their taste and texture were incredible. I now know what peas should taste like. Anything from a can just won't cut it anymore.

For dessert I had a Creme Caramel. It was a simply prepared caramel custard. It was good, but nothing like the flans you can find in Miami (or in my dad's kitchen).

Over all the meal was very nice, the service knowledgeable and professional, and the price very affordable for the portions received.

Across the street he has Bouchon Bakery, a small shop where all the breads are baked for the restaurants. You can buy pastries and breads there. Just down the street as well is Ad Hoc, Keller's version of a casual family restaurant.

I can only hope Keller opens a Bouchon in NYC. I'd become a regular in a heartbeat. Until then, you can only experience a Bouchon meal in the West Coast. However, he has some bakeries in New York, along with  Per Se.

JoJo--a 3 Star 3 Block Journey

New York is an amazing city. Perhaps nowhere else in America can you find such a vast array of cuisines and incredible, world-class restaurants. There is always a new place opening, a new star chef doing this or that. However, the city has some hidden gems that sometimes get lost amidst all the glitz and glamour. Most often, you would walk right by them and not even notice the treasures inside, privy perhaps only to the locals. Tuesday, December 7th, I had the night off and decided to become a local myself by choosing to dine at JoJo, a small, intimate French restaurant a mere 3 blocks from my apartment. 

JoJo has a unique history. It was the first restaurant to bear the name of now famed celebrity chef Jean Georges Vongerichten. JoJo, as his family would call him, is an Alsatian born French chef that studied under the masters, including Paul Bocuse. Vongerichten arrived in the United States in 1985 under the auspices of consulting chef Louis Outhier, opening the Le Marquis de Lafayette restaurant in Boston. A year later he arrived in New York to take over the executive Chef position at Lafayette in the Drake Swissôtel, generating critical acclaim with his innovative interpretation of classic French cuisine and earning four stars from The New York Times at the age of 29. There he met financier Phil Suarez, a loyal dining patron. Vongerichten and Suarez opened a bistro, JoJo, in 1991. JoJo was named Best New Restaurant of the Year, and earned three stars from The New York Times, in which Food critic Ruth Reichl claimed: "His food took my breath away". (Thank you much, Wikipedia!) You can read some of the NY Times reviews of JoJo here and here.

Since opening JoJo nearly 20 years ago, Vongerichten has created a culinary empire, perhaps stretching himself too thin, some would contest. Critics are quick to attest that he cannot be everywhere at once, and several of his restaurants receive less than positive reviews regarding service and food that falls short of its price tag. However, few would argue the quality and value of his Michelin 3-Star/NY Times 4-Star flagship--Jean Georges--going strong since 1996. Compared to his flagship in the Trump Hotel, JoJo is almost but a memory now of a place where a star chef was born. Fortunately for me, the memory lives on in my neighborhood.

With this knowledge, I eerily walked in to JoJo, unsure of what I'd find. Immediately, the beauty of the room took my breathe away. I felt like I had been transported into another world, far away from the cold and dark New York streets. The decor is elegant and old-worldly, filled with drapes, bronzes, purples, greens, and white tablecloths dimly lit by candles. The townhouse invoked a sense of warmth and familiarity, as if being in someone's home. 

Operating under the concept of a "bistro," the service at JoJo is unpretentious. The silverware, stemware, and limoges are not first class. Wines by the glass are not poured to taste, and the menu itself is pretty small. The staple items are still to be found as they were in the 90's--chickpea fries, roasted chicken, molten chocolate cake--perhaps indicating a lack of innovation in the kitchen. Maybe things have become a bit too casual over the years (I saw cooks walking through the dining room drinking water out of plastic containers, servers carrying wines to the bar in milk crates), leading to the loss of its Michelin Star a couple of years ago. I was a bit scared, thinking I was in for a bad experience. Thankfully, once things started going, the service at my table rolled by smoothly.

One of the nice things about Vongerichten's restaurants is that he offers affordable 2-3 course prix fixe menus year round. I was hungry, so I opted rather for the 4 course Autumn Tasting Menu.

Tuna Roll with Soybean and Cilantro Emulsion, Fava Beans, and Wasabi-Spiced Soy Sauce

***

Red Snapper with Carrot Confit, Cumin, Golden Raisin Couscous, Lemon Butter, and Olive Oil and Orange Juice Sauce

***

Rack of Lamb dusted with Seven Spices, Cucumber Mint Relish, Haricot Verts and Yellow Wax Beans

***

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream and Salted Caramel Tuile

***

Peppermint Chocolate Petit Four

To those unfamiliar with Vongerichten's cooking, take a closer look at the menu descriptions. It reads of his travels and passion for exotic flavors. He challenges classic French cooking by abandoning thick sauces, cream, and butter. He opts instead for light vegetable broths, Asian and Mediterranean spices, and bright, acidic sauces. Vongerichten prefers to let the vegetables and spices speak for themselves and awaken your palate rather than have them masked by a thick dose of cream, butter, and demi glace.

The Tuna Roll was okay at first bite, and its presentation extremely simple for a 3-Star restaurant. Unimpressed at first, consecutive bites revealed textures of flavor--a little spice here, a little herb here, a lick of salt there. It was a good appetizer, but nothing extraordinary. Perhaps a new take on sushi, if you will. 

Closest picture I could find of the snapper =)

The simple tuna dish was perhaps only a setup for the red snapper. Confit carrots sitting in a pool of an orange juice, cumin, and olive oil sauce, then topped with golden raisin couscous before putting the tender red snapper filet beautifully on top. The sauce was one of the best things I've had in a while; it really lifted the palate. All of the flavors stood out perfectly on their own, and just when you thought things got a bit too rich, you'd get a burst of lemon to put things back into perspective. Truly an exceptional dish. I wish I had a picture, but I've grown weary of taking pictures of food. The ones you see here have been taken from Google.

With my attention firmly in grasp, I eagerly awaited the lamb chops. They soon arrived and the aromas of the grilled spices and meat whet my tongue. Grilled to a perfect medium rare, the first bite was heavenly. The seven spices (cardamon, cumin, sesame, mace, cinnamon, red pepper, nutmeg) really sung through and the cucumber and mint relish added a cool contrast to the flavors of the grill. 

Dessert was JoJo's classic Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake. He has been making this since the restaurant's opening 20 years ago, and some may argue he created this now classic restaurant dish when he accidentally pulled a cake out of the oven too early. It is a simple yet delicious molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. I admit this dessert was how I first learned about JoJo a year ago back in Miami. Watching YouTube videos about Vongerichten, I came across one of him demoing this dessert at JoJo in the 1990's. Things have since come full circle, as I live by the restaurant, and had the opportunity to sample the dish, bringing another journey to an end. 

The restaurant has its flaws, namely in the casualness of the service. I began to think "but this is a bistro in concept, so it's ok." But when you see and eat the food, and witness the decor, you come to expect perhaps a bit more polish out of the staff. Small details would make a world of difference here, such as: carrying trays properly, not doing chinese food deliveries for the back of the house through the front door during service, not carrying wine bottles around in milk crates through the dining room, chilling wine bottles before opening them for guests, and not spilling water all over the table as soon as the guests sit down (I noticed these mishaps happen at other tables nearby). Will I make the 3 block journey again? Most likely, as the food more than made up for some of the service mistakes I saw, there are some menu items I'd like to try, and the warmth of the room really pulled me in. I can see why the Michelin Guide took back its star, and why the restaurant has faded into the background of the Jean Georges empire. If you're looking for perfection, this is far from it. Still, for a local like myself, this place is a great find I would recommend for a nice, quick night out bereft of any pretention.

And now, thanks to the wonder of the internet, you and I can make some of these recipes at home:

Red Snapper

Grilled Lamb Chops

Valrhona Chocolate Cake

Bon Appetit!

An Evening at Eleven Madison Park

Eleven Madison Park is an amazing restaurant to many people for many reasons. It's interesting to me because of it's history and my relationship with it. I first learned of the place a year ago while reading Danny Meyer's "Setting the Table." The restaurant was opened by Meyer in the 90's almost on a whim when he was presented with the opportunity. It is housed across from Madison Park in the ground floor of the Credit Suisse building in Manhattan, which was once supposed to be the tallest building in New York. The cathedral like structure of the beautiful room is grandiose, invoking a sense of awe. However, for many years, the restaurant had difficulty growing into its big bones. The food and service just never seemed to click properly, and the place received mediocre reviews at best.

Finally, after years of trying to find its own identity, they received a new chef, Daniel Humm. Classically trained and of European origin, Humm had been wowing diners in California at Campton Place. Within a short amount of time, the restaurant received its first ever 3-Star review from the New York Times. Shortly after that, they received a 4-Star review, making them at the time one of only 5 places in New York with the coveted rating. That same year, Humm won the James Beard Award for Best Chef New York City and Eleven Madison Park was ranked #50 on the San Pellegrino's World's Top Restaurants List.

Shortly after their accomplishments, I had the opportunity to interview at Eleven Madison and spent a night in service at the restaurant. I was simply awed at the production of it all--the dance of the servers, the art on the plates, the organization of everything, the amount of staff. While I did not get the job, I was still very impressed with the place and knew I would have to return one day.

That day arrived Monday, November 15, when two of my friends came to visit me in New York. I chose Eleven Madison as our celebratory destination, hoping (and knowing) they would deliver on the high expectations we had. Eleven Madison changed a lot since I interviewed--prices rose, the menu was formatted to fit fewer courses, cooks now act as servers, hostess desks and tables were removed, and even some of the "extras" given out to diners have since disappeared. Most agree the changes have made an already great restaurant even better, despite the fact some of the freebies that used to be given are now gone (free cognac and cigars for gents, a beautiful tray of amuse bouches).

My friends and I arrived promptly at 5:30PM dressed in our Sunday's best. Passing the revolving doors, we were warmly greeted. There was no hostess stand--we only had to say our name and they knew who we were. Since the staff was still finishing up their pre-service meeting, we sat in the lounge for a few minutes. We were then escorted to our table, and the meal began.

We were greeted by an assistant server who took our water order and handed me the wine list. The sommelier soon arrived and helped me pick out a Ployez Rose Champagne. It was slightly warmer than I would've liked, so I asked if he could chill it down and just leave us with a taste for the moment. He later pointed me in the direction of a great half bottle of pinot noir that was exactly as I had asked him for--fruity but with a touch of grip. After picking up our napkins, we noticed the menus sitting underneath atop a sharing plate. 

Sipping on our champagne, we studied the simple menu. It is composed of four rows and four columns--the rows represent 4 courses, and the columns represent the 4 choices per course. The dishes simply list the main ingredient. For example, the third row read Pork, Beef, Lamb, and Venison. The idea is you pick the ingredient, and have a conversation with the server regarding how you'd like it prepared. If you have any dislikes, they would be happy to accommodate you (within reason). Once our order was taken, the canapes and dishes began to arrive. The canapes were served by the cooks, who answered detailed questions about their preparations. 

My menu that evening read as follows:

EMP Dinner Menu 11/15/2010

Gougeres

Chicken Veloute with Black Truffle and Chives Brioche Toast

Cured Hamachi on Rice Toast with Wasabi

Mushroom Duxelle and Baby Scallops in Shells

Goat Cheese Lollipop and Red Beet Marshmallow Salad

White Truffle Sabayon

Baguette and Picholine Olive Bread with Goat and Cow Butters and Sea Salt

Duo of Foie Gras: Terrine with Pineapple Brunoise and Pearl Onions; Foie Gras Brulee with Brioche

White Truffle Tortelloni

Millbrook Farms Venison Loin with Apple Variations

Variations on Chocolate—Aerated, Dulce De Leche, Sorbet, Liquid Nitrogen

Mignardises—Olive Macaroon, Truffle and White Chocolate Bombom, Cold Banana with Chocolate and Nuts, Crispy Aerated Chocolate Chip

Complimentary Granola for breakfast the next morning

Wines:

Ployez Rose Champagne 

Pinot Noir, Domaine Louis Latour, Chateau Corton Grancey, Grand Cru, 2005

(I must confess these pictures are not my own; they were taken from Google, but are exact representations of what we had.)

Warm Gougeres--cheese puff goodness

Beet Salad 

This whimsical take on a beet salad included a red beet marshmallow and a liquid nitrogen frozen goat cheese lollipop that was presented in a basket of natural grass.

Picholine Olive Bread and a French Baguette

Cow and Goat Milk Butters with Sea Salt

Foie Gras Terrine with Pineapple and Pearl Onions

The creaminess of this foie gras was incredible--buttery smooth, with a rich taste. The onions provided the perfect contrast to the rich fattiness of the foie gras. The brulee (not pictured) was even better in my opinion, as the sugar gave a great sweetness to the foie mousse underneath.

Creamy Pasta topped with table side shaven White Truffles from Alba, Italy

Ted's Lobster dish

Venison Loin, with variations on Apples

Venison is a great fall game meat. Here it is cooked sous vide (vacuum packed and cooked in hot water for several hours). This enables them to get the perfect medium rare temperature from end to end, as seen in the picture. Otherwise, the meat would be cooked unevenly. It is then lightly seared a la minute when ordered. 

Ted's Beef, with Chive topped Sauteed Foie Gras atop Brioche Toast

Gaby's Duo of Pork--Belly and Cheeks

Variations on Chocolate--Aerated, Dulce de Leche, Sorbet, Liquid Nitrogen

Mignardises--White Truffle and White Chocolate Bonbon,
Olive Macaroon, Crispy Aerated Chocolate Chip, Cold Chocolate and Nuts Coated Banana

The meal was amazing, with the most memorable dish for me being the White Truffle Sabayon canape and the chocolate dessert. The service was equally impressive. Dishes were served and cleared simultaneously, wine service was flawless, and the staff was professional yet welcoming. There were very little flaws I could pick out, but to the average person that doesn't work in a restaurant for a living, one could say the service was absolutely seamless. At one point, my friend accidentally knocked some of the canapes off its base. Within seconds, a server arrived with a new tray of the canapes for us to have a second round. Later in the meal someone noticed me trying to wipe some sauce off my jacket. Again, someone appeared within moments with a napkin and club soda water for me to remove the stain. 

Everyone deserves to try a meal like this at least once in their life. I am grateful my friends were willing to accompany me and trust my decision to dine here. I hope you will have the opportunity, too.