Wine and cheese. I'm sure you've all heard the phrase before, but what does it really mean? Do you really know why wine and cheese famously go together? I'll admit, my knowledge on this subject is a bit handicapped. But I'd like to share with you a few things I've learned here and there so you are better equipped the next time you go out to such a function.
Here in NY, just a few blocks from where I'm temporarily staying right now, is the COUNTRY'S BEST cheese store/ restaurant. It is called Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro, and Wine Bar. (Fromage is the French word for cheese). It is a restaurant serving French bistro fare by Chef Terrance Brennan, who owns several places around town. More importantly though, what you need to know is that Chef Brennan is obsessed with artisanal cheeses made from small producers around the world. He is often credited for putting the spotlight on the infamous "cheese cart" rolled around fine dining establishments after your main course, an age-old tradition in Europe.
You can order cheeses from them and have them shipped to your door.
Last Wednesday I had the chance to visit his bistro for a late 4pm lunch (bistros are typically open all day). I enjoyed an octopus dish, a skate main course, and then a tasting of 3 cheeses--each paired with a different wine. *insert mmmmmmm noise here*
I ordered a great California beer I had never tried before called Stone Levitation Amber Ale. I've tried their IPA and it knocked me out. But as for this ale, imagine a Sam Adams without some of the bitterness, but all the flavor, and smoother. It was delicious and I highly recommend it (if you can find it).
For an appetizer I had an octopus dish. It had several grilled octopus tentacles, fingerling potatoes, smoked paprika, a frissee salad, and a tomato sauce with what seemed like sherry vinegar whisked in. If you’ve never had octopus before, try it! I’m sure many people are scared of the texture being chewy, crunchy, or gooey. But it actually has a meaty texture and the grill adds a nice charred flavor and crispiness to it.
For my entrée the waiter sold me on a sautéed skate wing. I wasn’t convinced at first as I don’t order fish often, but I took his recommendation and was pleasantly surprised. What made the dish for me was the brown butter sauce with blood orange juice. It had the perfect balance of savory (butter) and acid (juice). It had small croutons, shaved cauliflower, and blood orange segments, as well. Next to the fish was a small velvety mashed potato that was very creamy. The fish had an awesome crunchy texture on the outside and moist flesh on the inside. The recipe for this dish can be found here.
For dessert, I asked for the cheese and wine flight menu. Artisanal is the only place in the country I know of that has an entire dessert menu card devoted to cheese and wine pairings. This card was most likely created by Max McCalman. Max is an expert fromager who helped Terrance Brennan establish the famous cheese cart at Picholine. He came up the ranks as a sommelier and became an expert on pairing wine and cheese. There is probably nobody that knows wine and cheese better in the country than Max. He has written several books on the subject, for those interested in learning more. Artisanal goes as far as to age some of the cheeses they have in house inside this cave:
If a cheese is out on the floor, be assured that it has reached perfect ripeness. Otherwise, they wouldn’t serve it. The cheeses are stored on beechwood at 41 degrees Fahrenheit.
It didn’t take long for me to pick the fromager’s selection, as it had several cheeses I had read about many times but never tried (specifically Monte Enebro from Spain and Epoisses from France).
More on Wine and Cheese…
To compose a cheese plate, you pick 3-5 cheeses. Starting at the 6 or 12’oclock position, you put your mildest cheese and then move clockwise around the plate to your strongest cheese. The plate should have a variety of flavors and textures, and also come from different milks. These are typically cow, goat, or sheep’s milk. Each has its own flavor and funk to it. Bread, crackers, nuts, figs, and jellies often accompany cheese plates. Between cheeses, have some bread or crackers to bring your palate back to neutral, and have some wine and water to wash everything down. This way you can fully taste the next pairing. Serve the cheeses at room temperature.
The wine should match the cheese in several ways. In the case of my plate, the first cheese on the bottom, a Pierre Robert (Cow, France) went with a Champagne. Champagnes are good for soft cheeses with nutty flavors, such as Camembert and Brie. The toasty flavors of the Champagne match well with the nutty flavors of these cheeses, and the bubbles do great with the texture of the soft cheese.
The last cheese, Epoisses (Cow, France), was very creamy and very strong in flavor. When I say creamy, I mean it is literally oozing all over the place and cannot stand straight, like a pudding. This wine was paired with a Sauternes, a fully sweet dessert wine also from the Bordeaux area of France. Sauternes also pairs extremely well with Roquefort (and foie gras/duck liver), a horribly smelly and salty blue cheese from France. If you’ve never had a high quality Sauternes and Roquefort in your mouth at the same time, you haven’t lived yet.
Other famous wine and cheese pairings include Port and Stilton, Cheddar and Pinot Noir, Roquefort and Sauternes, Champagne and Camembert, etc.
So, the next time you decide to have some wine and cheese, think twice. Don’t just go for the Kraft Cubes. Spend a few dollars more and get something you and your guests can truly enjoy. Don’t be afraid of the funky smells! The strong cheese is not intended to be had on its own—it’s meant to go with a wine, some fruit, jam, or nuts. Experiment and have fun!
damn! you just made my mouth water!! i'm gonna try to do this in paris when i go. let's see if i can do this cheese plate!
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