Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Le Bernardin--The Best Seafood Restaurant in America

Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin, where "Fish is the star of the plate, not the chef," is widely recognized as America's best seafood restaurant. 
Gilbert and Maguy Le Coze
Named after an order of monks dedicated to good wine and food, it was first opened in Paris in 1972 by brother and sister duo Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze. The couple received 2 Michelin Stars before moving to New York City in 1986 and receiving a 4 Star review from the NY Times within just 3 months. The untimely death of Gilbert, who ran the kitchen, led to Eric Ripert being named chef. 
In 1995, they were re-awarded 4 Stars, never having missed a beat. With the debut of the Michelin Guide in New York, they received 3 Michelin Stars, the highest rating. They have never lost the 4 Star rating.
Le Bernardin is consistently ranked among the world's best restaurants, and boasts an impressive wine list crafted by head sommelier Aldo Sohm, rated World's Best Sommelier in 2008.
The silver tastevin was used by Burgundian monks to taste wine in dark cellars
Ripert, born in France, trained under some of the best French chefs of his time, including Joel Robuchon, Jean Louis Palladin, David Bouley, and stints at La Tour D'Argent and Jamin. He has won nearly every award possible, and is frequently seen on television on the show Top Chef, among others. 

Pastry Chef Laiskonis
Chef Eric Ripert


Over 700 pounds of fresh fish are flown in 
daily and broken down by one man, Justo Thomas, in around 5 hours. The fish is all sustainable, and ranges in textures on the plate from raw to lightly cooked. Simple garnishes serve to simply enhance the flavors, not mask them. The flavors and textures of the fish were revelatory. 









Yes, some will argue that there is very little cooking going on. That the fish are presented too simply and there is little skill involved--and to a point I agree. However, I would say that it takes a lot of restraint to not go overboard and present ingredients so simply. The fish truly was the star of each dish, presenting to me textures I had never seen with fish. Nothing was overcooked, nor was it undercooked. It hovered just above being raw.


After meeting longtime Maitre D' Hotel Ben Chekroun and settling down to some champagne, we asked our server to simply let the kitchen cook for us. This has become my favorite way to order because there are no boundaries, no set number of courses. The chef is challenged to take you on a ride and do things out of the box. Some will relish the opportunity, while others will groan at the thought of so much cooking. The best will do it with their eyes closed. For a white wine, the sommelier brought us a 2009 Austrian Sauvignon Blanc, something none of us had ever seen (as the grape usually is not seen there). I did not get the wine's name, but it was delicious and worked perfectly with the first few courses. 

The menu went as follows:

Salmon Rillete with Creme Fraiche, Chives, and Toast
Layers of Thinly Pounded Yellowfin Tuna over a Foie Gras Terrine and Crispy Toasted Baguette, Shaved Chives, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil with a Lemon Juice Squeeze
Osetra Caviar Nestled in Tagliolini Pasta with a Warm Sea Urchin Butter Sauce
Sauteed Langoustines with Mache and Spinach Salad, Sauteed Wild Hen of the Wood and Honshimenji Mushrooms, Shaved Foie Gras Terrine,
White Balsamic and Brown Butter Vinaigrette
Poached Halibut with Crispy Water Chestnuts and Sorrel, Braised Artichoke stuffed with Tomato Confit, Bacon and Water Chestnuts,
Persian Lime Scented Truffle, Ham, and Artichoke Bariguole Broth
2007 Vosne-Romane Pinot Noir, compliments of the house!
Crispy Black Sea Bass over Lup Cheong, Scallions, and Beansprouts, Mini Pork Buns, and a Hoisin Plum Sauce
Sourdough Bread Crusted Red Snapper over Tomato Confit with Saffron Fideos
and Chorizo-Smoked Sweet Parprika Sauce
Lime Parfait, Grapefruit-Tequila Sorbet, Crispy Meringue, Avocado Puree, Mini Cilantro, Lime Foam
Dark Chocolate Cake for Angel's Birthday!
Milk Chocolate Pots de Crème Egg with Caramel Foam, Maple Syrup, and Maldon Sea Salt
Dark Chocolate Cremeux, Cocoa Sable, Mango Pearls, Roasted Cashews, Coconut Sorbet
Warm Pistachio and Amaretto Financiers

I will most remember this meal for the friends I shared it with, and for the textures of the fish, which were cooked in ways I had not seen before. I recommend to try it at least once, just to savor those flavors and textures and lock them into memory forever. 

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