Bouchon in Napa Valley, California

What can be said of Thomas Keller and his cuisine that has not already been written. He is without doubt one of the world's most influential chefs of the past decade. Keller is an American-born chef that never attended culinary school, opting rather for the traditional method of apprenticing in kitchens in America and France. He is the only American-born chef to simultaneously hold two 3-Michelin starred restaurants (French Laundry, Per Se). Keller is the master of perfection, although he'd be the first to tell you "there's no such thing as perfect food." Dining at the esteemed French Laundry or Per Se, each continually ranked in the upper echelon of restaurants around the world, is not a meal--it is an experience bordering on the religious. You will never forget the flavors, the service, the platings. I was lucky to dine at Per Se several months ago, but before that, there was a cookbook, an evening in Napa Valley, and a place called Bouchon.

I first learned of Keller on my first day of hospitality school, when the chef instructor of my cooking class held up his book and said "This will be your textbook. Read it if you want, as there will be no tests on it. But reading it will help you understand the mind behind the greatest chef of our era." I scoffed at the notion of "a greatest chef" and did not buy the book. I could also not conceive paying a hefty $50 for a cookbook. However, a tiny seed was planted in my head. The concept of using fresh ingredients according to the seasons, the idea of cooking as a legitimate profession...these were novelties to me. It was not until three years later that I actually bought the book to read on my own--long after class had ended--to gain the insight into Keller's mind the instructor had spoken of. By this time I had already read every review, interview, and watched every video imaginable of The French Laundry, Per Se, and Keller. The book was the next step...

Opening up The French Laundry Cookbook, you quickly understand why this man is gifted. He has the ability to take the simplest of ingredients--such as carrots, leeks, and potatoes--and through his cooking transcend them into another world of flavor and texture altogether. Yet, when you look at the dishes, they don't seem complex. This is what makes him special--he can make incredibly difficult cooking techniques seem simple on the plate. The French Laundry cookbook is more than a listing of recipes. He devotes entire pages to talk about his transformation as a cook into a chef, the special purveyors he uses, and the inspirations for the dishes. It is full of countless tips, such as to "run the back of your knife over the skin of a fish filet to remove excess moisture so the skin will crisp nicely when searing."

After reading the book, and even attempting the Pig's Trotters (feet) recipe, I knew I had to pay a visit to one of his places. I had applied to work at The French Laundry back in early 2010, and a month later received notice that they would like to interview me. Within 3 or 4 days, I was already in Napa, staying at a bed and breakfast just 50 feet away from the temple of gastronomy that is The French Laundry. That evening, soaking in the beauty that is Napa, I decided to have dinner at Bouchon.

Bouchon is a Michelin 1-Star rated bistro that Keller created on the same street as The French Laundry. He wanted a place where he and his cooks could enjoy the comfort foods they grew to love in France. For a bistro to have a Michelin Star attests to the quality of cooking and service going on here. I sat down on a stool at the bar, and to my surprise saw Keller and his wife sitting about two tables away. I couldn't believe it!

As an appetizer, I had a Petit Cassoulet de Lapin et Foie Gras. It was a black stock pot casserole of rabbit leg confit, foie gras, heirloom beans, and rabbit jus. I can't recall ever tasting rabbit before this, and every rabbit I've had since I compare to this. It tasted so incredible and rich, words can almost not describe (this will become a theme throughout this post!). It could have easily been an entree since the portion was so big, yet it was priced as an appetizer! It was rustic food cooked with flawless technique.

As an entree, I enjoyed a Gigot d'Agneu (leg of lamb). It came over a bed of English peas, turnips, rhubarb, and a natural lamb jus that was poured tableside. The lamb was most likely cooked sous vide, as it was a perfect medium rare all the way around. It was delicious, but what shocked me even more were the peas and vegetables on the plate. They were harvested right from the French Laundry's farm down the street. Due to this, their taste and texture were incredible. I now know what peas should taste like. Anything from a can just won't cut it anymore.

For dessert I had a Creme Caramel. It was a simply prepared caramel custard. It was good, but nothing like the flans you can find in Miami (or in my dad's kitchen).

Over all the meal was very nice, the service knowledgeable and professional, and the price very affordable for the portions received.

Across the street he has Bouchon Bakery, a small shop where all the breads are baked for the restaurants. You can buy pastries and breads there. Just down the street as well is Ad Hoc, Keller's version of a casual family restaurant.

I can only hope Keller opens a Bouchon in NYC. I'd become a regular in a heartbeat. Until then, you can only experience a Bouchon meal in the West Coast. However, he has some bakeries in New York, along with  Per Se.

JoJo--a 3 Star 3 Block Journey

New York is an amazing city. Perhaps nowhere else in America can you find such a vast array of cuisines and incredible, world-class restaurants. There is always a new place opening, a new star chef doing this or that. However, the city has some hidden gems that sometimes get lost amidst all the glitz and glamour. Most often, you would walk right by them and not even notice the treasures inside, privy perhaps only to the locals. Tuesday, December 7th, I had the night off and decided to become a local myself by choosing to dine at JoJo, a small, intimate French restaurant a mere 3 blocks from my apartment. 

JoJo has a unique history. It was the first restaurant to bear the name of now famed celebrity chef Jean Georges Vongerichten. JoJo, as his family would call him, is an Alsatian born French chef that studied under the masters, including Paul Bocuse. Vongerichten arrived in the United States in 1985 under the auspices of consulting chef Louis Outhier, opening the Le Marquis de Lafayette restaurant in Boston. A year later he arrived in New York to take over the executive Chef position at Lafayette in the Drake Swissôtel, generating critical acclaim with his innovative interpretation of classic French cuisine and earning four stars from The New York Times at the age of 29. There he met financier Phil Suarez, a loyal dining patron. Vongerichten and Suarez opened a bistro, JoJo, in 1991. JoJo was named Best New Restaurant of the Year, and earned three stars from The New York Times, in which Food critic Ruth Reichl claimed: "His food took my breath away". (Thank you much, Wikipedia!) You can read some of the NY Times reviews of JoJo here and here.

Since opening JoJo nearly 20 years ago, Vongerichten has created a culinary empire, perhaps stretching himself too thin, some would contest. Critics are quick to attest that he cannot be everywhere at once, and several of his restaurants receive less than positive reviews regarding service and food that falls short of its price tag. However, few would argue the quality and value of his Michelin 3-Star/NY Times 4-Star flagship--Jean Georges--going strong since 1996. Compared to his flagship in the Trump Hotel, JoJo is almost but a memory now of a place where a star chef was born. Fortunately for me, the memory lives on in my neighborhood.

With this knowledge, I eerily walked in to JoJo, unsure of what I'd find. Immediately, the beauty of the room took my breathe away. I felt like I had been transported into another world, far away from the cold and dark New York streets. The decor is elegant and old-worldly, filled with drapes, bronzes, purples, greens, and white tablecloths dimly lit by candles. The townhouse invoked a sense of warmth and familiarity, as if being in someone's home. 

Operating under the concept of a "bistro," the service at JoJo is unpretentious. The silverware, stemware, and limoges are not first class. Wines by the glass are not poured to taste, and the menu itself is pretty small. The staple items are still to be found as they were in the 90's--chickpea fries, roasted chicken, molten chocolate cake--perhaps indicating a lack of innovation in the kitchen. Maybe things have become a bit too casual over the years (I saw cooks walking through the dining room drinking water out of plastic containers, servers carrying wines to the bar in milk crates), leading to the loss of its Michelin Star a couple of years ago. I was a bit scared, thinking I was in for a bad experience. Thankfully, once things started going, the service at my table rolled by smoothly.

One of the nice things about Vongerichten's restaurants is that he offers affordable 2-3 course prix fixe menus year round. I was hungry, so I opted rather for the 4 course Autumn Tasting Menu.

Tuna Roll with Soybean and Cilantro Emulsion, Fava Beans, and Wasabi-Spiced Soy Sauce

***

Red Snapper with Carrot Confit, Cumin, Golden Raisin Couscous, Lemon Butter, and Olive Oil and Orange Juice Sauce

***

Rack of Lamb dusted with Seven Spices, Cucumber Mint Relish, Haricot Verts and Yellow Wax Beans

***

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream and Salted Caramel Tuile

***

Peppermint Chocolate Petit Four

To those unfamiliar with Vongerichten's cooking, take a closer look at the menu descriptions. It reads of his travels and passion for exotic flavors. He challenges classic French cooking by abandoning thick sauces, cream, and butter. He opts instead for light vegetable broths, Asian and Mediterranean spices, and bright, acidic sauces. Vongerichten prefers to let the vegetables and spices speak for themselves and awaken your palate rather than have them masked by a thick dose of cream, butter, and demi glace.

The Tuna Roll was okay at first bite, and its presentation extremely simple for a 3-Star restaurant. Unimpressed at first, consecutive bites revealed textures of flavor--a little spice here, a little herb here, a lick of salt there. It was a good appetizer, but nothing extraordinary. Perhaps a new take on sushi, if you will. 

Closest picture I could find of the snapper =)

The simple tuna dish was perhaps only a setup for the red snapper. Confit carrots sitting in a pool of an orange juice, cumin, and olive oil sauce, then topped with golden raisin couscous before putting the tender red snapper filet beautifully on top. The sauce was one of the best things I've had in a while; it really lifted the palate. All of the flavors stood out perfectly on their own, and just when you thought things got a bit too rich, you'd get a burst of lemon to put things back into perspective. Truly an exceptional dish. I wish I had a picture, but I've grown weary of taking pictures of food. The ones you see here have been taken from Google.

With my attention firmly in grasp, I eagerly awaited the lamb chops. They soon arrived and the aromas of the grilled spices and meat whet my tongue. Grilled to a perfect medium rare, the first bite was heavenly. The seven spices (cardamon, cumin, sesame, mace, cinnamon, red pepper, nutmeg) really sung through and the cucumber and mint relish added a cool contrast to the flavors of the grill. 

Dessert was JoJo's classic Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake. He has been making this since the restaurant's opening 20 years ago, and some may argue he created this now classic restaurant dish when he accidentally pulled a cake out of the oven too early. It is a simple yet delicious molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. I admit this dessert was how I first learned about JoJo a year ago back in Miami. Watching YouTube videos about Vongerichten, I came across one of him demoing this dessert at JoJo in the 1990's. Things have since come full circle, as I live by the restaurant, and had the opportunity to sample the dish, bringing another journey to an end. 

The restaurant has its flaws, namely in the casualness of the service. I began to think "but this is a bistro in concept, so it's ok." But when you see and eat the food, and witness the decor, you come to expect perhaps a bit more polish out of the staff. Small details would make a world of difference here, such as: carrying trays properly, not doing chinese food deliveries for the back of the house through the front door during service, not carrying wine bottles around in milk crates through the dining room, chilling wine bottles before opening them for guests, and not spilling water all over the table as soon as the guests sit down (I noticed these mishaps happen at other tables nearby). Will I make the 3 block journey again? Most likely, as the food more than made up for some of the service mistakes I saw, there are some menu items I'd like to try, and the warmth of the room really pulled me in. I can see why the Michelin Guide took back its star, and why the restaurant has faded into the background of the Jean Georges empire. If you're looking for perfection, this is far from it. Still, for a local like myself, this place is a great find I would recommend for a nice, quick night out bereft of any pretention.

And now, thanks to the wonder of the internet, you and I can make some of these recipes at home:

Red Snapper

Grilled Lamb Chops

Valrhona Chocolate Cake

Bon Appetit!

An Evening at Eleven Madison Park

Eleven Madison Park is an amazing restaurant to many people for many reasons. It's interesting to me because of it's history and my relationship with it. I first learned of the place a year ago while reading Danny Meyer's "Setting the Table." The restaurant was opened by Meyer in the 90's almost on a whim when he was presented with the opportunity. It is housed across from Madison Park in the ground floor of the Credit Suisse building in Manhattan, which was once supposed to be the tallest building in New York. The cathedral like structure of the beautiful room is grandiose, invoking a sense of awe. However, for many years, the restaurant had difficulty growing into its big bones. The food and service just never seemed to click properly, and the place received mediocre reviews at best.

Finally, after years of trying to find its own identity, they received a new chef, Daniel Humm. Classically trained and of European origin, Humm had been wowing diners in California at Campton Place. Within a short amount of time, the restaurant received its first ever 3-Star review from the New York Times. Shortly after that, they received a 4-Star review, making them at the time one of only 5 places in New York with the coveted rating. That same year, Humm won the James Beard Award for Best Chef New York City and Eleven Madison Park was ranked #50 on the San Pellegrino's World's Top Restaurants List.

Shortly after their accomplishments, I had the opportunity to interview at Eleven Madison and spent a night in service at the restaurant. I was simply awed at the production of it all--the dance of the servers, the art on the plates, the organization of everything, the amount of staff. While I did not get the job, I was still very impressed with the place and knew I would have to return one day.

That day arrived Monday, November 15, when two of my friends came to visit me in New York. I chose Eleven Madison as our celebratory destination, hoping (and knowing) they would deliver on the high expectations we had. Eleven Madison changed a lot since I interviewed--prices rose, the menu was formatted to fit fewer courses, cooks now act as servers, hostess desks and tables were removed, and even some of the "extras" given out to diners have since disappeared. Most agree the changes have made an already great restaurant even better, despite the fact some of the freebies that used to be given are now gone (free cognac and cigars for gents, a beautiful tray of amuse bouches).

My friends and I arrived promptly at 5:30PM dressed in our Sunday's best. Passing the revolving doors, we were warmly greeted. There was no hostess stand--we only had to say our name and they knew who we were. Since the staff was still finishing up their pre-service meeting, we sat in the lounge for a few minutes. We were then escorted to our table, and the meal began.

We were greeted by an assistant server who took our water order and handed me the wine list. The sommelier soon arrived and helped me pick out a Ployez Rose Champagne. It was slightly warmer than I would've liked, so I asked if he could chill it down and just leave us with a taste for the moment. He later pointed me in the direction of a great half bottle of pinot noir that was exactly as I had asked him for--fruity but with a touch of grip. After picking up our napkins, we noticed the menus sitting underneath atop a sharing plate. 

Sipping on our champagne, we studied the simple menu. It is composed of four rows and four columns--the rows represent 4 courses, and the columns represent the 4 choices per course. The dishes simply list the main ingredient. For example, the third row read Pork, Beef, Lamb, and Venison. The idea is you pick the ingredient, and have a conversation with the server regarding how you'd like it prepared. If you have any dislikes, they would be happy to accommodate you (within reason). Once our order was taken, the canapes and dishes began to arrive. The canapes were served by the cooks, who answered detailed questions about their preparations. 

My menu that evening read as follows:

EMP Dinner Menu 11/15/2010

Gougeres

Chicken Veloute with Black Truffle and Chives Brioche Toast

Cured Hamachi on Rice Toast with Wasabi

Mushroom Duxelle and Baby Scallops in Shells

Goat Cheese Lollipop and Red Beet Marshmallow Salad

White Truffle Sabayon

Baguette and Picholine Olive Bread with Goat and Cow Butters and Sea Salt

Duo of Foie Gras: Terrine with Pineapple Brunoise and Pearl Onions; Foie Gras Brulee with Brioche

White Truffle Tortelloni

Millbrook Farms Venison Loin with Apple Variations

Variations on Chocolate—Aerated, Dulce De Leche, Sorbet, Liquid Nitrogen

Mignardises—Olive Macaroon, Truffle and White Chocolate Bombom, Cold Banana with Chocolate and Nuts, Crispy Aerated Chocolate Chip

Complimentary Granola for breakfast the next morning

Wines:

Ployez Rose Champagne 

Pinot Noir, Domaine Louis Latour, Chateau Corton Grancey, Grand Cru, 2005

(I must confess these pictures are not my own; they were taken from Google, but are exact representations of what we had.)

Warm Gougeres--cheese puff goodness

Beet Salad 

This whimsical take on a beet salad included a red beet marshmallow and a liquid nitrogen frozen goat cheese lollipop that was presented in a basket of natural grass.

Picholine Olive Bread and a French Baguette

Cow and Goat Milk Butters with Sea Salt

Foie Gras Terrine with Pineapple and Pearl Onions

The creaminess of this foie gras was incredible--buttery smooth, with a rich taste. The onions provided the perfect contrast to the rich fattiness of the foie gras. The brulee (not pictured) was even better in my opinion, as the sugar gave a great sweetness to the foie mousse underneath.

Creamy Pasta topped with table side shaven White Truffles from Alba, Italy

Ted's Lobster dish

Venison Loin, with variations on Apples

Venison is a great fall game meat. Here it is cooked sous vide (vacuum packed and cooked in hot water for several hours). This enables them to get the perfect medium rare temperature from end to end, as seen in the picture. Otherwise, the meat would be cooked unevenly. It is then lightly seared a la minute when ordered. 

Ted's Beef, with Chive topped Sauteed Foie Gras atop Brioche Toast

Gaby's Duo of Pork--Belly and Cheeks

Variations on Chocolate--Aerated, Dulce de Leche, Sorbet, Liquid Nitrogen

Mignardises--White Truffle and White Chocolate Bonbon,
Olive Macaroon, Crispy Aerated Chocolate Chip, Cold Chocolate and Nuts Coated Banana

The meal was amazing, with the most memorable dish for me being the White Truffle Sabayon canape and the chocolate dessert. The service was equally impressive. Dishes were served and cleared simultaneously, wine service was flawless, and the staff was professional yet welcoming. There were very little flaws I could pick out, but to the average person that doesn't work in a restaurant for a living, one could say the service was absolutely seamless. At one point, my friend accidentally knocked some of the canapes off its base. Within seconds, a server arrived with a new tray of the canapes for us to have a second round. Later in the meal someone noticed me trying to wipe some sauce off my jacket. Again, someone appeared within moments with a napkin and club soda water for me to remove the stain. 

Everyone deserves to try a meal like this at least once in their life. I am grateful my friends were willing to accompany me and trust my decision to dine here. I hope you will have the opportunity, too.

Union Square Farmer's Market

New York City has a little hidden secret (or perhaps a secret to some) that occurs 3-4 times a week in Union Square. Beginning in 1976 with just a few farmers looking to showcase their fresh harvest, it has now grown into a mecca for those seeking the highest quality and variety of vegetables. Danny Meyer selected his location for Union Square Cafe back in the 80's because of its proximity to the market.

I visited this past Wednesday as I had a day off. Even though I visited near closing time, there was still hundreds of people roaming the market and plenty of great produce available for sale. With a $1 cup of hot apple cider in my hand, I explored the market, learning new vegetables and seeing what it's in season.

The 2 acre area hosts over 140 producers each week! Each purveyor comes from the tri-state area, some of them driving hours just to showcase their produce. The farmers are very eager to share their growing practices and give you advice on how to cook their produce.

Not only is the variety of produce mind boggling--the prices are incredibly cheap as well (compared to supermarkets). Even local chefs have been known to visit the market in the mornings to select the best pieces to feature on their menus.

Everything they provide is organic and fresh. 

The offerings change according to the season--tomatoes in the summer, apples and gourds in the fall, etc. If it's not in season, you won't find it here.

If you're ever in New York, I encourage you to stop by. And if you live in New York, it's a great place to shop for your weekly groceries and be inspired to cook with the seasons. If you're interested in learning more about it, visit their website.

On matching food and wine...

If you were able to read some of the first blog posts, you may remember a promise I made to talk about how to pair food and wine. So now that you're able to properly evaluate wine, it's time to put your skills to proper use. In fact, if you read nothing else but this opening paragraph, read this--drink your wine with food! If you're still with me, you're about to go from zero to hero at the dinner table as you impress your date by seamlessly ordering the perfect wine to match your food--no sommelier needed.


Wine is a beverage that is ideally meant to be drank with food. In Europe and South America, wine is drunk at lunch and dinner almost daily. Even young kids grow up drinking wine at the dinner table. The United States mostly does it backwards. We drink wine on its own for happy hour. As a result, we like "fruity" and "sweet" wines with lots of sugar. After all, we grew up drinking coca-cola. Manufacturers know this, and pump sugar into their smiley-faced labeled pink bottles for unsuspecting buyers walking down the grocery aisle. When a wine is strong or has some tannin, we don't like it, and instead spring for the fruity white zinfandel. Consequently we miss out on good, strong wines that were actually crafted to be drank with food, not at happy hour! Do you actually think you're going to get a decent wine at a 2-for-1 special? If you just want to get drunk, then save your time and money and have a couple of shots of this instead:

Does this mean the wine cops will come after you for drinking wine at a party or happy hour without some food? Absolutely not. You just need to be smart about what you drink. For example, if you're just having hors d'oeuvres, do not drink the big red cabernet sitting on the table. Its strong tannins will punch you in the face, destroy your palate, and make the wine taste horrendous. You'll think your friend is cheap and hates you for bringing over such a poor wine. Had you been smart, opened the wine an hour prior to let the alcohol evaporate, and drank it with the grilled meats later in the evening, you'd thank your friend for the excellent wine he brought to the party.


So let's get started, shall we? I'll begin with the bare bones basics and do a quick drill with some visual aids:

REAL RED Zinfandel

FAKE Zinfandel

     Repeat After Me

No comment necessary...

YES

The girl you marry

The girl you don't call back

Deeeelicious!

Over the counter boxed urine

Congratulations, you've passed the first level! You're well on your way to becoming a stud. Now that you have the basics down, we'll get to the nitty gritty...


On Complexity:
Professionals suggest that there can only be one star at the table--either the food or the wine. In other words, if you have an extremely elaborate and complex dish, you should have a simpler wine to allow the food to shine. If you have simple food, order a complex wine. I agree with this logic. However, if I was enjoying great food, I'd like some great wine to go along with it, as well. I like taking things to the extreme. Experiment on your own and have fun with this one.


On Acid Levels:
Acid is incredibly important in matching food and wine as it helps to cleanse your palate when you eat foods that are high in fat, cream, sugar, butter, and salt. For example, high acid wines go well with rich, buttery lobster because they cleanse your palate between bites. Without the wine, you'd grow tired of the lobster quickly and the buttery taste would linger in your mouth.


Acid in wine also provides balance to dishes themselves high in acid, such as tomatoes or ceviche. Without it, the tomatoes or ceviche would feel too acidic.


High Tannin Wines:
Tannin, if you remember, is that thing in red wine that dries your gums and tongue. Highly tannic wines should ideally be matched with dishes high in fat and protein--such as steaks--because the tannin binds to the protein and fats. Upon binding, the tannin actually solidifies and you end up swallowing it. As a result, with the bitter tannins out of the way, the wine becomes much smoother in the mouth. In addition, due to its bitterness, tannic wines go well with charred or grilled foods.


Tannin is one of the major things to consider when pairing food and wine. A highly tannic wine will have a similar effect to a high alcohol wine--it will destroy your palate and the subtle flavors of the light food. So, don't drink a cabernet with a light fish dish.


If anywhere else, this is where the maxim of "drink white wine with white foods and red wines with red foods" makes the most sense.


On Sweetness Levels:
When thinking of sweet foods (particularly desserts), the wine you drink must be at least as sweet--if not sweeter--than the food you're eating. So for example, if you're having chocolate cake, drink a port. Remember, as I mentioned in the earlier post about wine, when I say sweet I mean dessert wine. Not "fruity."


Sugar can also act as a foil to spicy and salty foods. So, spicy curry with an off-dry Gewurztraminer is a great match.


On Saltiness Levels:
If a food is overly salty and you would like to reduce the perception of the salt, choose a wine high in acid or high sugar (or both).


On Alcohol Levels:

You don't let a sumo wrestler into the ring with a high school wrestler, do you? It'd be unfair for the skinny kid. Therefore, have light wines with light food and heavy wines with heavy food. The weight of the high alcohol will squash the subtle flavors in a light dish. In fact, some serious foodies will not drink hard liquor when having an expensive meal because the alcohol deadens the palate and flavors are lost.


Another factor to consider is that spicy foods will accentuate the alcohol in wine. Therefore, when eating spicy foods, drink wines low in alcohol. Opt instead for wines with some sugar, such as a Riesling or Gewurztraminer.

On Intensity Levels:

Despite the above statement about alcohol, there is one exception. If you have an intensely aromatic or flavored wine, the intensity can act as a substitute for the alcohol. So, for example, you can have an intense white riesling with roasted duck.

On Fruits, Smells, and Tastes:
All other factors considered first, when choosing between two wines that will equally pair well with a dish, I will opt for the wine whose own flavors will be able to match the flavors of the food. For example, if your dessert is a pecan pie, you know you need a sweet wine (due to the rules of sweetness listed above). But, there are countless dessert wines out there. Which should you choose? I would go for a Sherry or a Madeira, as these are sweet wines with nutty flavors that will blend well with the pecans in the pie. Likewise, as in the chocolate cake example, a port would go well because it can sometimes have undertones of chocolate. A grassy sauvignon blanc would go well with a seafood dish featuring cilantro or herbs. The pairings are endless!

On Pinot Noir:

Pinot Noir is a particularly flexible wine that I really find enjoyable and sometimes make it my go to wine when making recommendations. The main reason is that for me, Pinot Noir straddles the line between the characteristics shared by both whites and reds. It is one of the only reds I would consider pairing with light dishes--such as fish--yet you can still drink it with red meats. This is due to its low tannin and alcohol levels. It can be so smooth that it will not overpower a light dish.


I would often recommend this when I had people at a table ordering different things. One person wanted fish, and the other wanted a steak. However, one of them would insist on drinking red. I would turn to Pinot Noir--the fish wouldn't be overpowered and the steak eater would still get his red.

On "Buttery" Chardonnays:

Chardonnay is an unaromatic grape variety that is often aged in oak barrels in order to give it some body, color, flavor, and aroma. The aromas and flavors imparted are that of a buttery, dairy smell. The color becomes more golden yellow. (By the way, this is the same thing done to whiskeys and other liquors aged in barrels--to give them color and taste).


The more aging done to the Chardonnay, the more of this buttery aroma it will have. In addition, it will also have more alcohol, and feel heavier to drink.


Not all Chardonnays have the same level of barrel aging. Typically anything from France will be light, whereas "New World" wines will have more barrel aging. I urge you to go out and taste some buttery Chardonnays and some light wines to see which you prefer. As with all things wine related, each style will have its own application when it comes to pairing. A buttery Chardonnay may go great with a pasta or lobster dish, whereas a lighter Chardonnay may go great with a fresh salad.


On Regional Pairings:
If all else fails and you're left scratching your head for a minute when trying to pair wines, there is an almost foolproof maxim that you can turn to and still get by safely with: If it grows together, it goes together.  In other words, pair wine and food from the same region together. Spanish wines will always match well with Spanish food; French food and wine are a match made in heaven; Italian food and wine; South America...etc! You can almost never lose with this philosophy.

Thanks for reading! I hope you enjoyed it, learned something new, and go drink some wine! But remember.....

I don't always drink wine, but when I do, I drink it with food. Stay thirsty, my friends.

Restaurant Week NYC

Twice a year (Summer and Winter), Manhattan restaurants participate in an event called Restaurant Week. It's a span of anywhere between 2-6 weeks where some of the upscale places in town offer a 3 course lunch or dinner for a reduced price of $24 or $35, respectively. This is a monster bargain, as many of these places would normally cost 2-3 times that price for a 3 course meal. However, you have to be careful what you wish for, as some restaurants will offer you a great meal, whereas others will throw scraps onto the menu and pretend it's fine dining.

Due to my moving up here recently and being occupied with more important things (such as finding an apartment!), I didn't have the time to explore as many places as I wanted. Fortunately though, I was able to check out two places: David Burke Townhouse and Le Cirque. 

David Burke Townhouse came first. It was off a friend's recommendation on a Sunday evening. It's a very modern, chic looking place in the Upper East Side and received a 2-Star NY Times rating several years ago. The chef/owner, David Burke, is a bit cooky. Many of his plates have eccentric names and presentations. But whereas many other chefs with an air for the flair fail with the execution of the food, he makes it work pretty well. Service was pretty good, but what surprised me was the food and the immense portions we got considering it was restaurant week. Sure, a few details were missed (unpolished fork, Riedel etching on the wine glass pointing the other way), but these are details only a perfectionist would look for, especially when you work in an environment where perfection is demanded every day. They were easy to overlook considering the great meal we had.

Albert, who first made an appearance in a previous pizza episode, and I sat down in the lounge and were treated to a great meal. For starters, he enjoyed a Pretzel Crusted Crab Cake with a Sweet Chili Prawn, Confit Orange and Poppyseed Honey. Due to my shellfish allergy, I didn't want to risk anything so I didn't try it, though he enjoyed it immensely. I opted for something simpler--a Wedge Salad with Bacon Lardoons and Russian Dressing (it also had crawfish which I had removed). It was very well presented and tasted great. 

Pretzel Crusted Crab Cake with Sweet Chili Prawn

Our entrees took it up a whole notch, as Emeril would say. Albert enjoyed a "Bronx Style" Filet Mignon of Veal and Veal Cheeks with Pea Puree, Pea Shoots, and Pistachio "Candy." This was one of the most flavorful and tenderest steaks I've ever tried. The veal cheeks served on the side literally melted in my mouth. I've never seen meat so soft. The "Bronx Style" is a new cut of meat that supposedly Burke himself invented. There's a great write up of the cut on this website. I'm not sure if filet is the proper term, but it's close enough. The little crispy white things are typically referred to as "beggar's purses," and are small fried concoctions with a filling inside.

My Handmade Cavatelli and Braised Short Ribs, with Wild Mushrooms, Mushroom Chips, and Truffle Mousse was heavenly. It was definitely one of the best short ribs I've had. The cavatelli are the white cylinders in the picture; they are a small rolled pasta. The mushroom chips--the brown things on the right--added a nice textural contrast to the dish. However, the stars of the show were the beef and the truffle mousse. The white truffle mousse was quenelled tableside and really lifted the flavor of everything on the plate. After several bites, everything got a bit mushed up together and it became a bit difficult to pick out individual flavors, but who am I kidding, this dish was just ridiculously good.

Dessert was good, but after the home runs we had as entrees, it was a difficult act to follow. I had a Caramelized Apple Tart with Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, whereas Albert had a moist Chocolate Cake with Mint Chip Ice Cream and Morello Cherry Sorbet. Each was delicious and light, which was nice because we didn't need a heavy and rich dessert. 

I would recommend this place for restaurant week without a doubt--you get a great value for your money.


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Le Cirque Then

Le Cirque Now

The second place I visited a few weeks later. Called Le Cirque, it is one of the most famous restaurants of the past 40 years. It's history is old and rich (much like the clientele!). Opened in 1974 at the Mayfair Hotel (where Daniel now resides) in the Upper East Side by famed restaurateur Sirio Maccioni, it was a mandatory stomping ground for any celebrity passing through New York. Daniel Boulud was its most famous executive chef and took it to its highest glory of 4 stars from 1986-1992. Getting a table was so difficult, that the Pope at the time even joked with Sirio once "If he could get him a table," to which Sirio replied "Yes, but could the Pope reserve him a table in Heaven." Since then, the moniker stuck, and getting a table at Le Cirque was referred to by some as getting a table in heaven. Over the years, Le Cirque has twice moved locations, with it's newest reopening occurring in 2006. 

Le Cirque at the Bloomberg Tower

Unfortunately, I feel, as some critics do, it has lost much of the luster and shine it once had. However, I would like to give them the benefit of the doubt for two reasons: 1) I had the restaurant week menu, which is cheap compared to the real menu, and 2) I dined in the lounge since I was a party of one. I could imagine their real menu in the main dining room being a better experience.

For an appetizer, I had a Salad of Peach and Smoked Mackerel with Basil and Pane Fritto. I'll admit I did not enjoy this dish, as I found the fish to be overly salty and have a bit of an off fishy flavor. The pane fritto added some crunch to the plate, but it seemed like it had been fried a while ago and had become slightly soggy. The basil came both as a coulis and as seeds.

My entree was a Pistachio Crusted Lamb Filet with Peas, Mint, and Goat Cheese. The presentation was very simple. I felt more could have been done to excite the eyes other than simply placing a filet of lamb atop a pea and mint puree. It was cooked a bit more than the medium rare I asked for. The flavors were great and the goat cheese matched well, but there was nothing truly exciting about the dish. I found the monkeys on the plate to be kind of childish, personally.

Lastly, for dessert I had a Rice Pudding with Apricot Marmalade and Almond Crunch. I was really looking forward to this because being Cuban, I've been searching for ways to spice up traditional rice pudding for years. I liked the concept of this dish, but the rice pudding was nothing compared to what you can get in Miami, which are rich and full of intense milk flavors.

Lastly, the service was pretty poor. My waiter made no attempts to recommend anything other than their high-priced tasting menu, did not communicate much at all throughout the meal, brought wines out after the dishes were served (it should be poured before the dish arrives), and even forgot to charge me for the meal itself! The check only included the two glasses of wine I ordered (one of which they did not even have, although it was listed on the menu). If you are out of a wine, you should not list it. If you offer me a substitute, show me the bottle, don't just bring the glass filled with the wine.

Lounge Area where I dined

Getting a dinner reservation at Le Cirque may have been a table in heaven thirty years ago. Today, however, I think it is living more on its reputation than anything else. I'm not sure why they have a Le Grande Tables du Monde designation, or what former NYTimes critic Frank Bruni was thinking about when he gave it 3 out of 4 stars in 2008. Perhaps he got the high end treatment because they knew it was him coming in. If none other than for these two respected opinions, I give the restaurant the benefit of the doubt that they are still good. I will have to visit again in the future and not skimp on a wimpy restaurant week menu in the lounge. I hope they can sway my vote.

Les Grande Tables du Monde--not sure who deemed them worthy